Page 3 of 3
“I really enjoyed the technical challenges involved in the Chapter Three project,” explains Andreas Strehler. “Kari developed the majority of the movement architecture so I was able to concentrate on inventing an innovative ‘reveal’ opening/closing mechanism, conical gearing for the rollers, and maximizing production efficiency.”
Developing the movement from scratch enabled the rollers to be integrated to the caliber rather than added as a more space-consuming module. High-efficiency conical gearing—a Strehler specialty—contributes to both the efficacy of the power distribution and reliability of the mechanisms. The bespoke movement architecture also incorporates the mechanism for opening and closing the reveal panels in the dial. Building this functionality into the movement rather than adding to the complexity of the case maximizes both reliability and use of space. The panel open/close mechanism is a movement complication in itself. With the dial closed, pushing the button in the crown lowers the panels below the dial, and releasing the button causes them to rotate out of view so that the second time zone and day/night rollers are revealed. Pushing the button again rotates the panels into position and, releasing the button causes them to elevate and sit flush with the dial.
As might be expected from two of the world’s best watchmakers, rich functionality and stylish good looks were not enough: a superlative watch should also be an accurate timekeeper. To that end, the movement is regulated by a Straumann escapement, featuring a lightweight energy-efficient escape lever and balance spring with an isochronism-improving Breguet overcoil.
With Chapter Three ‘Reveal’ by Kari Voutilainen and Andreas Strehler for Maîtres du Temps, when it comes to choosing between functionality and style ... you don’t have to.
Movement |
Caliber SHC03 Manual winding mechanical movement Dimensions: 35.6 mm x 8.2 mm (inclusive of dial mechanism) Number of components: 319 Number of jewels: 39 Power reserve: 36 hours Dual mainspring barrels in series Balance frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz) Straumann balance spring with Breguet overcoil and low-mass escape lever Finishing: Côtes de Genève, perlage, beveling, and polished screw heads |
Functions |
Central hours and minutes, small seconds, date, moon phase, hidden time zone on roller, hidden day/night on roller, manual winding mechanical movement |
Case |
18K gold Number of components: 49 Dimension: 42mm Sapphire crystals on top and display back with anti-reflective coating Shaped pusher: quickset hidden time zone Crown: 3 positions plus pusher Position 0: Winding Position 1: Setting date and moon phase Position 2: Setting time Pusher: Open/close dial panels Water resistance: 30 meters/ 100 feet/ 3 ATM |
Dial |
Number of components: 3 Roman numerals Sun-ray guilloche, Clous de Paris guilloche Hands: 18K gold |
Rollers |
Hidden time zone: dual sliding embossed rollers Hidden day/night: engraved and hand painted |
Bracelet/Strap |
and-sewn alligator strap with 18K gold tang buckle |
<< Start < Prev 1 2 3 Next > End >>
|